Jebel Akhdar tour

Jebal Akhdar is packed with culture, history, nature and friendly Omani' s. With the temperature being considerably (around 10 C) cooler than it is at sea level it makes a perfect day trip or overnight camp.

Up until a few years back Jebel Akhdar was the name on every Omani's tongue, a legend that was spoke about in curiosity and eager interest, yet closed to all but military without permission.

Omani elders told stories of Jebel Akhdar to their children and grand children, stories which most had been past onto them by their grand fathers.

When the road to Jebal Akhdar was finally opened up to the public, local Omani people and tourists flocked to the plateau in anticipation to visit first hand the people and sights of the stories they had heard for years.

Jebel Akhdar is the mountain range in the Western Hajar, the name meaning Green Mountain in English. Its main town of Sayq lies at 2300m and the highest point 3000m in Jebal Shams. The range measures around 12 miles from north to south and 18 miles from east to west.

From Muscat to Sayq plateau at the top of Jebal Akhdar takes 2.5-3 hr drive on tarmac road throughout.

Things to do in Jebal Akhdar

There are many short walks and long hikes to do in Jebal Akhdar, some of which are military routes which were used in the Jebal Akhdar war. (See below)

Also famous for its fruits, rose and nut plantations, there are many small villages which farm some of the best in Oman. Abandoned villages are scattered randomly along the plateau hidden in wadi's and caves, remains of the inhabitants can still be seen in the houses.

Jebal Akhdar is not just a spectacular landscape but is bursting with history waiting to be seen.

Extra information

Note that Jebal Akhdar is the name of the mountain range, this includes Wadi Bani Auf, Jebal Shams, Sharaf al Amayn. When people talk about Sayq plateau town they will often just refer to it as Jebal Akhdar.

At the start of the road up to Jebal Akhdar there is a military check point where the driver will have to stop and show their I.d card and driving license.

In the winter it is advisable to take a jumper and rain coat as it often rains and can get quite cold, in particularly in the evenings so you may even wish to bring thermals.

The Jebal Akhdar war (1954-1959)

A small civil war rarely heard of in the rest of the world, the Jebal Akhdar war began in Oman in the early 1950's due to a modern clash with the impact of petroleum development and ancient beliefs and traditions.
The former sultan of Oman, Sultan Qaboos bin Taimur, despite being the overall ruler of Muscat, had limited powers as a result of religious factors and tribal loyalties. Taimur came into conflict with a Saudi American oil company who claimed that oil existed near the Buraymi oasis located on the border between Oman and the United Arab Emirates. This oasis consisted of 9 small villages, 6 of which belonged to Abu Dhabi and 3 to Oman. The Saudi's claimed that this area was their territory because it had previously been occupied by the Saudi Wahibi tribe.

Oman and Abu Dhabi requested that Great Britain negotiate with the Saudi's on their behalf.

A Saudi garrison of 40 men were occupying the Buraymi Oasis when over 8,000 of the Sultan's Forces were positioned near by. The Sultan was persuaded not to take military action and to send his troops home. Finally, in 1955 he was persuaded to take this same action and kick the Saudi's out of the area.

During this time the Saudi's supplied gifts and money to the Omani tribes in an attempt to undermine the Sultan.

In 1954 Imam Mohammed died and was succeeded by Ghalib bin Ali al Hinai who was reportedly elected as a result of Saudi influence. Ghalib was supported by his brother Talib who at the time was the wali of Rustaq and Sulieman bin Himyar the Lord of the Green Mountain- Jebal Akhdar.

Relations between the newly elected Imam and the Sultan were soon ruptured over the right to grant oil concessions and fighting began between the Sultan's Forces and the supporters of Ghalib.

With Sulieman being the leader of Jebal Akhdar it made it highly difficult for the Sultan's Forces to even get past the rebels looking down on them from the top of the mountain. Weapons were continuously being transferred to Jebal Akhdar supplied by Saudi Arabia. This, and the strong position of being on the mountain top, gave the rebels an increase in strength.

Great Britain sent over few but much needed help to the Sultan's army who eventually found an unguarded route up to the top of the plateau.
This gave them a good stance but they knew they still lacked in forces.
The colonel leading the troops at the time was a British commander known as Colonel Smiley who requested but was denied the help of more British military. However, he was granted some RAF pilots based in Sharjah who flew over the jebal bombing it but making little impact as the rebels were well hidden in caves and wadi's, the air force did make a great difference in the
overall conflict. The rebels began to feel the increase of strength in the Sultan's Forces and began to ask for cessation of hostilities but were denied.

Eventually the rebels were expelled from Jebal Akhdar and most went into hiding. Afterward there was a programme set into place to establish social infrastructure on the mountain.

For further reading visit

http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/report/1984/CSA.htm